ROBERT & CARMEN
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Colombia  &  Ecuador  Feb 2-24, 2020

Guayaquil Market - Ready to head home

2/23/2020

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Finally going home late tonight. Carmen found a market which was full of Ecuadorian trinkets and souvenirs, we caught an Uber for about $3 to the market and spent about an hour looking around and picked out a few last minute small items. But it was the same stuff we had seen in many other markets or street stalls. After the Market we walked back up to the Malecon were we shared a banana split to cool off. Back at the hotel we shared a couple of beers and listed to the bar entertainers. We walked over to the Mall across the street from the hotel and bought last minute chocolates for friends, then walked to a pizza place which was pretty good.

We waited at the hotel lobby for a couple of hours before catching the shuttle to the airport, our flight would not leave till 1:40 am in the morning.We would be in Dallas by 6.30 am and had a long 5 plus hour layover where we almost missed our flight because the gate had changed and we were just not paying attention till Carmen asked me about the flight about to leave. I got back on the app and saw that the gate had changed and had to run about 15 minutes to get to the new gate at the large DFW Airport, we ended up being the last 2 people to board the plane.

Now the the whole trip is over, I am thankful that all went well, that Carmen and I got to spend this time being together that we did not get any bad weather at all other than just a few minutes on the last day. For me this is country 24 and 25 - I still have my goal of 60 by 60. Carmen and I spent a lot of time together, lots of walking and sharing this time.

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Travel to Guayaquil

2/22/2020

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We were up by 6 am, did our last breakfast in Cuenca and tipped our waiter that has been taking care of us every morning so well.

We caught yet another Taxi to the Buseta, were we are trying to catch the fast mini-van to Guayaquil as opposed to the bus that would have taken over 5 hours with many stops. Just as we were arriving to get our ride they were about to pull out but our Taxi driver honked at the bus and they waited for us. We quickly went inside and gave them our names, payed without any passport information asked for and quickly rushed to the van and headed out.
 
The driver was very friendly and we talked a lot on the way, we found out that he was a wood sculptor who had shown in both the USA and Europe but had fallen on hard times. He explained much to us about crossing the Andes and stopped at the highest elevation of 4200 meters above sea level - which we were riding above the clouds. At times the visibility was very bad because of the clouds, his only guide was the yellow line in the middle of the road.

There were many rock and mud slides due to the heavy rain the night before, at times all we could see was maybe 15 feet in front of us, with many times having to go into the other lane because of the rocks on our lane. 

The scenery was just incredible, he told us if we ever come back to contact him and he would take us to see it all up in the Andes. We went past many lagoons which were fed from water coming down the mountains which fed the Amazon River. 

About 30 minutes from Guayaquil we were pulled over by an immigration checkpoint after we had stopped to try some local fruit, some of the fruit was very juicy and one fruit which we had never had before, a cross between a pumpkin and a mango. For some reason which we did not find out , his papers were not in order and had to bribe the police to let us move on. 

Finally arriving in Guayaquil we took a Taxi but to the wrong Sheraton Hotel , but they ended up sorting it out and even got our points for the other hotel returned days later. The lady at the front desk felt bad for our mix-up and ended up giving us free breakfast for the next morning. We took a Taxi to the Malecon and walked around in 80 degree and very humid weather. After being at high elevation in Quito and Cuenca were it has been very cool. 

We saw a few churches and even went into one which had a small chapel that did have AC. As we were ready to head back to the hotel we saw that there were a fellow streets blocked off and that there would be a parade within 15 minutes.

​While it was a very small event, it was nice to see how they celebrated Carnaval. Within half an hour it was over, many dancers a few floats and many kids spraying either some foam or water to the entertainers. There was a kid right beside us that keep spraying out but because of the wind we were the ones getting wet.

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Cuenca  - Non Festival/Parade

2/21/2020

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We went to town early, because we thought there was going to be a parade at 9:00 am. due to Carnaval, There was nothing to be seen, we walked around several blocks but did not see anything.  Carmen was disappointed because last night was the first night of Carnaval, with the Comadres and Compadres Fiesta and we did not attend.  She spent time online trying to find the events for Carnaval.

We went back to the hotel and returned late in the afternoon and saw that they were setting up for live music.  We stood around and waited for the music.  The band kept warming up and they played one song.  Then it started sprinkling.  We don't know if it was the rain or the band did not like that the crowd was very small...they walked off the stage! 

​Carmen entered into the clothing store in the center of the square and purchased some pants.  It was super cold and raining so we decided to take a walk and then took a taxi back to the hotel.   

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Cuenca - Museos

2/20/2020

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This morning I woke up with a very stiff back and barely made it to the workout.  After about 10 minutes on the machines I was feeling better. 

After a wonderful breakfast where they know us already....the waiter brought out my soft boiled eggs and my triple shot of espresso. 

We caught a taxi towards the Cathedral but stopped short at the Calle Larga, where we walked the length of it and saw the mercado.  We entered and took some pictures but did not buy anything as we had just eaten breakfast.  The mercado had lots of little spots for eating and vegetables and fruit on sale. 

We then went to several museums and galleries.  Two of the favorite places were the free ones.... Historic Center of Cuenca and the Pumapumgo Ruins where inside the museum section they have shrunken heads. 

We stopped for lunch I had fish and Carmen had a fried shrimp rice that was too much food.  We both said we should have ordered the daily menu meal for half the price.  We took off walking again and did our best to stay on the shaded side of the street, as the sun was very hot today. 

​We entered into a historic nunnery, where we were able to see bits of the lives of the girls that chose to enter into the convent.  Many of the girls were from Aristocrat families and had items that they took with them to the convent.  Those items were on display at the museum/convent.  They also had a cemetery that was part of the chapel.  

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Cuenca  - Tourist Police

2/19/2020

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No workout today. We walked to the mall that was down the hill from the hotel and caught a taxi to take us to the thermal baths just outside the city.  It was not anything fantastic and we were not sure if we were at the right place. There were different pools of water with different temperatures, Turkish saunas, and a mud area. 

Both of us spread the mud on our bodies and let it dry, then we dunked our bodies in the water pool in the area.  We then washed with water only and went to the hot bath areas.  The idea is to dunk our bodies in the ice cold water first then move to the hot water. 

At the end of the adventure we both felt our bodies very relaxed.  We were not prepared and had not brought a towel, so we used our clothing items to dry ourselves.  Carmen used a scarf that she then wrapped on her head.  We then walked up the hill to the church.  It was closed for the day and would not open again for several days for mass.  We walked back and took a taxi back into town and walked around aimlessly very tired.  I had my Ecuador patch sewed on my backpack.
 
While walking around the city's main park Parque Calderon we had some immigration officers come to us and asked to see our passport, we did not have them , then they asked to see another form of ID. I became pissed at them and told them that they had to right to ask us for ID, I took my Drivers Licence from his hands and also Carmens. They said that we fit the that of non Ecuadorians.

We bought a good bottle of wine and once we reached the hotel the bar staff opened the bottle and gave us an ice container to cool the bottle.  We were glad of our choice of wine and finished off the bottle.  We did buy an Ecuadorian metal sun at a shop that caught Carmen's eye.  It was a metalsmith shop. 

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Cuenca - All day

2/18/2020

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I went to get a workout then we went to breakfast....unexpected breakfast. because I did not hink breakfast was included with the hotel stay.  The check in lady included breakfast for us.  The hotel cost us 7500 points per night, and included a fantastic breakfast with many choices. 

I had a triple espresso and Carmen had a cafe con leche. We caught the hotel shuttle to the cathedral in the city square, Cathedral de la Imaculada Concepcion, also known as la cathedral nueva by the locals.  

I was overwhelmed by the beauty and size of the cathedral.  we took some photos and video and I was overcome with emotion by the beauty of this building. 

Pope John Paul had visited here in 1990.  We walked outside the Cathedral towards stalls of ladies selling roses and flowers, where the Carmelite nuns  made rose water from the petals of the roses. Carmen bought a glass of water and tried to drink it all.  She said it had a slight smell of roses and tasted fresh.  The water is used as a health booster for those that drink it.  There was a room where visitors could also buy other medicinal items made by the nuns. 

Carmen walked into the area and saw that on the wall there was a dumbwaiter/turn table on the wall.  There was a man that came and put an item on the  turn table and spoke to the nun on the opposite side of the wall. He asked for a prayer for a person and the nun responded to him.  They also sold wine.  We did not buy any. 
 
We walked around and about 2:00 pm we walked into a restaurant where the doors were barely open.  The staff told us that it was their first day and they were having a soft opening.  That whatever we ordered was on the house.  We were honored to be first and had a wonderful lunch. Carmen had a lasagna and I had a panini sandwich with caramelized onions.  I could not believe that I ate them and loved them!  As we were ready to go they brought out dessert, tiramisu , which was also great.  
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The owners came over to get our thoughts on the food and service.  We gave them our high reviews.  We walked around some more and then got to the bus station.  Carmen talked a lady into using their bus cards so that we could get on the bus.  She paid the fare to the lady.  It was a good experience to sit on the bus and see the locals and also ride through some streets that we would not have entered otherwise.  

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Cuenca

2/17/2020

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This day we had a travel day.  in the last two days I went to work out in the roof, had a great breakfast..... loaded up with coffee.  The breakfast is a buffet.  We took some fruit for the afternoon snack.  Carmen and I are a bit tired, our legs are getting a workout with the walking we are doing.  We took an Uber to Zona Historica.  While walking around we grabbed some platanito chips with a different sauce on top.  It was a vinaigrette with coconut and spicy flavor.  I also grabbed a large churro filled with dulce de leche.
  
Late in the afternoon we took a very turbulent flight to Cuenca.  The taxi driver warned us that there would be lots of turbulence.  There were kids on the flight that screamed as the plane swooned up and down.  The pilot made an announcement that Carmen could not hear.  Carmen was very nervous and called out to the stewardess that she could not hear the announcement.  I told her - what does it matter?  If we are going down we are going down.  She got quiet after that - probably praying the whole time.  We arrived safely after 45 minutes.   

We knew that there was a hotel shuttle available for us.  We forgot to call to tell them when to pick us up.  Luckily there was one other guest going to the Marriott that had made arrangements to have the shuttle pick him up.  We caught a ride and were at the hotel by 8:30pm. 

​There were no restaurants around the hotel, so we walked to the Mall del Rio and ate a pizza in the food court.  We ordered a pizza, and when we picked it up we found out it was a two for one deal.  We ate most of one and took the second one to the hotel receptionists.  


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Mitad Del Mundo

2/16/2020

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After a workout at the small gym I went to breakfast and had an omelette they made especially for me.  I tipped the cook at the end of breakfast.  We took an Uber to the Middle of the World, Equator.  After a 45 minute ride we arrived to the area and entered the park.  We spent spent all morning and even had lunch there.  It was a nice theme park.  We arrived early so there were no lines.  We paid to enter and took the elevator to the top of the monument. 

There we had a nice view from the top of all the area.  We then took pictures and Carmen walked down the stairs to view the museum areas at each floor landing, I took the elevator back down.  
We walked around and found the llamas - Carmen fed the llamas.  We could have gotten our passports stamped but did not, because we did not have them.  We decided to buy t-shirts with the 0 degree 0 latitude sign. Carmen bought a hammock that she would carry in her backpack.  We had lunch and saw them roasting the guinea pigs, but did not try them.  Carmen refused to look at them, because she felt sad. We walked to all the shops and decided it after an ice cream to leave. 

We took an Uber to the Schoenstatt Sanctuary at the top of a hill.  We arrived after they had finished service but still walked into the chapel.  It was a very pleasant atmosphere, beautiful and so peaceful. Next to the chapel there is a small school that is run by the same church staff.  We have visited three of these little churches and hope to visit more around the world.     
From there we walked a couple of kilometers towards the hotel.  We walked past some very impoverished areas then some very nice areas with homes that had lovely gardens.  Many of the streets were steep walks downward and this was painful on the knees.  We finally decided to get a cab and paid to paid .50 cents to get to the hotel..  :)  We wanted to go out to eat so we took an Uber to the Mall del Rio. 

The driver told us a story of getting his masters in the US.  Carmen bought some face cream for her sunburn from being at the Equator.  I bought some shorts for future use.  

We made reservations to fly to Cuenca, a 55 minute flight instead of a 12 hour bus ride for $60.00 each.  I booked 5 nights at the Marriott in Cuenca for only 30,000 IHG points.  The fifth night was free.  The point savings has been very helpful on this trip. 

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Quito & Krakow - first UNESCO World heritage cities.

2/15/2020

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Woke up early and went to the rooftop to workout. After a full breakfast in the hotel we took a Uber to the Basilica del Voto Nacional.  We found that Quito along with Krakow Poland were the first two cities in the world to be named UNESCO World sites. 

The cost to enter the Basilica was $2 and an additional $2 to walk the stairs to the top of the bell towers.  On the way to the bell tower we stopped in the section of the Medallion where we took a picture.  I ended up going one level from the very top of the towers and I saw the bells.  Carmen stayed in a lower section after the gift shop.  

Afterwards we walked the original city and bought some chocolates.  We then entered the San Agustin Church.  This was a very beautiful church that had pink and yellow interiors with flower prints that looked like wall paper,.  It was very beautiful. 

When we went back outdoors, Carmen talked to some ladies dressed in traditional clothing.  We found out that there would be a free dance and comedy show.  The show was packed, and donations were given at the end of the show.  We gave a tip, as we had enjoyed the dancing and the comedy.  The lady got the guests involved into the show, and I was one of the ones she used.  It was funny and all in good sport. 

After the show we walked around again and then returned to the hotel.  We went out to look for a restaurant to eat and decided on the Waffle and Crepe restaurant that was near the hotel.  I chose the beef stroganoff, Carmen had a salad that she said had too much vinegar.  

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Colombia/Ecuador Border

2/14/2020

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Woke up to the sound of church bells early this morning.  We dressed and decided to go out looking for coffee.  The weather was chilly, so we wore our jackets this morning.  We walked the steep steps to towards the church and found that there were not many people out early at 6:30 am.  The shops and restaurants were not open.  We walked all the way to the church and noticed that there was one place with several locals drinking coffee.  We sat down and ordered coffee.  The server asked if we wanted bread with cheese and I told her no, just bread like the one the elder lady was eating. 

Carmen wanted the bread because it looked like the one from Mexico made in the oven.  The lady told me she did not have that bread, because the elder lady brought her own bread.  We had to settle for the bread that she had in the house.  The view we had while drinking our coffee was outstanding.  The beauty of the mountains, the church, the waterfall and the river below.  It was all so overwhelming and so painfully beautiful.  To imagine the task of building a church of this size on the side of the mountain was just incredible.  

After coffee we went back to the church and caught the end of mass.  As always, Carmen lit her candle and said a prayer for our girls and family.  The interior of the church was beautiful, clean and well maintained.  We then paid the 1.50 USD to enter into the museum.  The cost was well worth it!  We were able to walk down into the underground rooms to see the artifacts as well as to view the professional video of the story of how the church was built and why. 
The story is that a lady walking with her daughter was caught in a terrible rainstorm.  The child saw a vision of Mary in the cave that called her in.  Their lives were saved and from there they went to share the story.  The first church in honor of Mary was built of adobe and straw, there was a picture hanging in the museum, as well as other pictures of the expansion and construction of the current sanctuary.  There were many items in storage from the beginning years of the church and from many visitors from around the world....including China.  

We then walked the exterior of the church and to the gondolas that carry people from the sanctuary area to the city area.  Carmen was afraid to get on, so we did not ride these.  We walked to the shops then headed back to the hotel to get our items and to take a taxi.  Carmen took a picture with a very fancy dressed Llama. We realized that we spent less than 24 hours in this beautiful site and were left so impressed with the magnitude of followers, the faith and the peace that is there. Carmen told the taxi driver that she hopes to return one day.  He shared with us that the dates of Fiesta is when there is lots of people and lots of festivities.  Christmas is also a time of much celebration and decoration. I think we got the better time....because we were able to see everything in a peaceful and beautiful way. 

The Taxi driver stopped at the overlook area so we could take some pictures of the church with the river.  He then took us to the boarder of Ecuador and Colombia.  He dropped us off right at the immigration office of Colombia.  We walked up the sidewalk and entered the building, within 3 minutes we had our exit stamp and were ready to cross the bridge into Ecuador.  While crossing the bridge we were asked by a soldier if we had gotten the exit stamp. 

This is probably because there have been tourist that forget the exit stamp and then have to go back.  We got the stamp from Ecuador then walked out to the street.  We walked to the area where there were some stands and taxi cars. 

Carmen was hungry, but after looking at what was offered we decided to wait until we got somewhere else.  We took a taxi to the bus station which was about 7 miles south of the border. We decided before getting a bite to eat that we would check the bus schedule to Quito first, we asked at one kiosk when was the next bus leaving, they told us about 45 minutes, then the guy in the next kiosk tells us that they are leaving in 5 minutes. We decided to go on that one to get on the road, I pulled out our passports and they told us that they did not need them that the bus was leaving - It cost us $7 US Dollars each for our trip. We rushed to the already moving coach, about an hour into our trip we were pulled over by immigration, they came onboard and asked everyone for Cedula (ID) or passport. They saw ours and gave them right back. Finally immigration without any hassles, it must be our age, we are no threat to the country.

Lots of people getting on and off the bus at the check point, the local sellers see it as an opportunity to come on the bus to sell really odd things, like phone chargers, electric shavers, curling irons and many other things. At about 10:30 we stopped for breakfast, we shared a meal, Gallina soup (Chicken)some type of beef that was very fatty and the usual rice and plantains that you would get with every meal. We fed the Plantains to a small dog wondering around. The full meal which also came with a drink was $4 US.

AT about 5pm we finally arrived in Quito and immediately took a Taxi to our Holiday Inn Express which cost us 15K IHG Points and went out to the neighborhood to have dinner.

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Ipiales y La Virgen de las Lajas

2/13/2020

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We woke up early this morning - by 5:30 we were walking the streets looking for a taxi to take us to the bus station.  In the dark we walked towards the park and after a few blocks we hailed a taxi and quickly got to the station.  We bought our tickets and the bus ended up being about 45 minutes late.  Carmen bought her crackers and mango juice to stop the nausaus feeling. 

We rode the bus for almost 10 hours to the area close to the boarder of Ecuador and Colombia.  As we ride we see the edge of the road and very deep drops with beautiful scenery.  There was no AC on the bus. it seems they are making progress on their highway, lots of construction.  As the cars try to pass each other with limited visibility.  There is one lane each way.  In the middle of the day, when it got hot the driver opened the side door of the mini van so that the air could circulate.  With the cool wind coming in we were really comfortable.  Having the door open reminded us of Romancing the Stone. 

Finally after 10 hours of riding we arrive in Ipiales.  We did not have a reservation because there had not been any wifi on the bus.  When we got off the bus there was a blue hotel just by the station.  We took the chance and talked to a taxi driver and told him we wanted a hotel next to the sanctuary/cathedral.  He was nice and wanted to get to know us.  He took us to a very small hotel where his friend worked.  He could drive no further into the area, because it was all blocked off with buildings.  We got a room for 15 dollars a night.  It had hot water, a small restroom.  Once we got into the small room we could see that we were there just to spend the night. 

The bed was sunken in the middle.  I got two of the thick covers and folded them neatly to place in the middle of the mattress.  We were very tired, yet did not want to waste any time and walked down to the church.  We were very pleased.  Our knees were hurting, especially mine with the operation.  The walk was slow and steep towards the river.  Once we made the final turn we were able to see the sanctuary and were surprised and amazed all at once.  As the sun went down the lighting on the building turned on.  It was very late and we had the place all to ourselves.  The shops were closing, but Carmen was able to buy a candle from one of the last vendors. 
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We took many pictures and walked the bridge, but not to the waterfall because it was dark.  We agreed to enter the museum and visit the waterfall in the morning.  We were so happy to be there and to have made it to this amazing sanctuary.  A beautiful last stop in Colombia before heading into Ecuador.  We walked slowly back to the hotel, around 9 pm and even though we were tired, we took a shower and quickly fell asleep.  There was a very quiet qnd calm feeling in the air.  We woke to the sound of the church bells at 5:30 am.  

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Popayan, Colombia

2/12/2020

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We decided to stay a second night in Popayan to make it a rest day.  Carmen had gotten ill with stomach cramps.  We washed all the clothes and layed them out to dry.  
We walked the city and watched the people.  We went for lunch - carmen had salmon and I had langostinos.  They were nothing like the ones we had by the river in Mexico when Carmen's cousin Chaco took us to the river.
We slept in a bit but the workers doing construction made so much noise. 

We then decided to try again to go for a walk.  We decided to go to the highest point of town where there was a church.  We got lost and ended up in someone's house with a barking dog.  They told us how to get to the church and made it up there at the end of mass.  Carmen walked up to the back of the altar where the Santo was and said a little prayer.  The locals were also going back there to hug the Santo Ecce Homo, Amado Senor Jesucristo.  The church had a very interesting history.  It was built on land that had been a Rancho de paja/ hay farm.

The owner built a small chapel for the Carmelite nuns. In 1717 they lifted the big Santo Ecce Homo, carrying him up to the chapel.  After the 1776 Earthquake the chapel was rebuilt due to damage.  There have been two more earthquakes that caused damage and the people rebuild and continue to have the church in the same land. The large cross outside the church is one piece that has withstood the test of time and earthquakes.   

​We started to walk back down slowly and found a place to eat.  The place was very old, with a big wood oven.  We ordered a pizza, beer and lemonade.  I mixed my beer with lemonade. They were very slow,  and had a big group of people upstairs. When we got the pizza we were pleased with the thin crust and the flavor. 
After eating we walked slowly through the streets to get back to the Airbnb.  Carmen bought the girls some earrings and I bought a small trinket for our Christmas tree.   


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Cali and Popayan

2/11/2020

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After a light workout we headed out walking to the La Hermita Cathedral.  This time it was open.  We visited the La Hermita and then went back to the underground area where they fixed phones .  Carmen decided to get a new battery for her I-phone 6s.  It works great and just needs to hold battery longer.  

​On the video on the right you will see cars and motorbikes driving on the sidewalk, which is also shared by pedestrians. Why do cars ride on the sidewalk on some streets? Because at some time when they decided to get the Metro Buses in place as you can see the Metro station on the left in the medium, cars were no longer allowed to ride on the street. In some sidewalks there are metal barriers to not allow cars but then there are the motorcycles. We did feel safe, as they drove very slow, but you had have to be very aware of traffic in either front or behind you depending on which way you were walking.

We walked along the river where there were many cat sculptures on display.  Carmen loves cats, so we took some pictures.  
When walking in the park we were able to see many trees with big orchid plants growing on them, some were blooming.  

We were not going to spend the full day in Cali and took a mini bus to Popoyan.  Taking the mini buses allowed us to see the country, the mountains and the people that live in the areas.  In Pompayan we got an AirBnb which while the owner was very nice and helpful with information about the town, the actual apartment room was extremely loud with very thin walls. They happened to be doing constructions on the building so there was noice but to add to it the workers had very loud music all day long and to add to that other residents of the building would turn their own music louder to drown out the constructions work and Music and even further there were dogs barking through the day. We have never given a negative review on AirBnb but we had to tell the truth on this to avoid other guest from having the bad experience we had.

 The evening in Popoyan they were having a celebration in the square.  There was a gathering of towns people there to see the dancing and hear the announcements.  The city would be represented in the big Carnaval of Bogota.  


​We had dinner at a restaurant across from the square, while we waited for the dancing to begin. Once we finished our dinner we crossed the street to stand in the square and enjoyed the dances and the music.  After it was over we walked to our Airbnb.  It was late, but there were many people out on the street walking and enjoying the night.  
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A Day in Cali, Colombia

2/10/2020

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We were up by 7:30 and both went to the gym to work out.  The workout was the best thing we could have done, so that our bodies would not hurt at the end of the day after all the walking we did.  

We walked along the river to go to the Cathedral La Hermita, but it was closed.  I still did not have my phone, and found a place that would fix my old phone I brought as extra.  I was told it needed to change battery and clean it up.  We walked around for 2/3 hours, then came back to check on it.  It was fixed and we had to get it unlocked, and waited another half hour.  At the end of all of this I never put in a new sim card in Ecuador because I got my phone back from the bus driver. 

There was dancing going on on the main plaza where Carmen bought a cool drink.  The drink was pure sugar cane with a twist of lime. We were impressed with all the typist that were in the Plaza de los Poetas.  They were there under the umbrellas, waiting for customers.  Carmen said it reminded her about a story that shared how people would go to the town writer to get a love letter typed for a small cost.  They were working on letters and other documents that would be needed for school or other business affairs.
  
We went back to Continental Hotel to bathe and change for dinner.  We intended to look for a burger place, but ended up at a Ramen Noodle shop that was a small restaurant on the third floor of a building.  It was an excellent choice!  Both Carmen and I enjoyed the meal. 

We tried getting money out of two different Schwab cards, but were unable to.  In the morning we found out that the ATM's had been out of order the night before, and it was not our cards.   
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Cali, Colombia

2/9/2020

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I woke up early not feeling well.  Carmen went on a early morning walk with the Hotel owner's dog, Pasqual.  He went ahead on the trail with Carmen and took her to the river and up the dirt road.  I stayed behind because the descend was too steep.  When they returned we sat to have breakfast.  I had half a cup of coffee and some toast bread.  Carmen had two easy over eggs and an arepa.  She said it was like eating at her aunt's house in El Rancho.  The hotel staff then called us a taxi to take us to Pereida, the town where we would take the bus to Cali.  When we got on the taxi I told the driver that my stomach was upset and I may be asking him to stop for me.  He said he would stop at a drogeria and I could get some medicine.  We stopped and I got some pills.  I like that we can go and purchase just what we need without having to buy a whole bottle of pills that will last and may go bad in months.  
We took a mini van to Cali.  We had a midway break for lunch about 3.5 hours into the ride.  We had many vendors trying to sell us items for eating.  The medicine worked for me as I was feeling much better.  Even after the passengers were back in the van, the vendors stayed in the van and tried to sell us items.  We bought ice cream.  We had a conversation with a lady that was in her 80s about traveling.  She shared that traveled to most of Europe including Lourdes in France.  She has traveled with her church.  
When we got to Cali, we caught a taxi right away to Intercontinental Hotel.  As we were getting off the taxi, the driver is asking for 1500 more pesos, even after I gave him a small tip.  I get fed up with him and walk away into the hotel.  Our hotel tonight we get with an anniversary freeby for IHG points.  Our room is on the 6th floor.  We clean up and head out walking to a park nearby in the San Antonio area.  We climb the big hill to get to the San Antonio church.  It is locked at first, then they opened it.  We walked around and admired the many birds hopping around and sitting on the grass as well as the trees.  So many yellow and blue birds.  As we walk back to the hotel we found a restaurant, it was my turn to choose.  I chose the seafood pizza with clams, scallops and squid.  Instead of pizza dough, it was a thick bread with curry sauce.  I was afraid to eat too much so was not able to eat more than one slice.  We took it back to the hotel to eat later, but did not even eat it.  We went to the pool but it was closed and Carmen said we could try the next day.  

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San Vicente Termales and Hacienda Santa Clara

2/8/2020

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Up early to the song of birds.  We stepped out of the cabin and got our first view of the entire grounds.  We had arrived so late that we did not see the beautiful surroundings and the fact that we were surrounded by mountains. 

Carmen took some video before the other guests woke up.  We had breakfast and then went down to the hottest bath areas, where if you took off your shoes at times the bubbles coming out from the ground were very hot.  This was the bubbles pool, which had sulfur minerals.  My ring and Carmen's bracelet changed colors.  After spending some time there we walked into the Turkish baths/sauna.  It was cool temperature which made the baths feel great to our bodies.  We then went to a pool that had a small artificial waterfall.  I sat under the hot water letting the water hit my shoulders, relaxing.
 
Now that we knew we were not getting a second night at the grounds we arranged to get a ride into town after lunch.  The girl that worked at San Vicente shared the ride with us to go into town.  She called around to get us a hotel.  We were taken to Santa Clara Hacienda, a very nice hotel on the outskirts of Santa Rosa de Cabal.This brought back memories of our trip to Vernon, France. 

​The garden, the smells of cooking and the river nearby.  We took a taxi to the Plaza of town, it was Saturday evening and there were lots of people in the square.  We walked into the church and rested as we caught the end of mass then walked around .  We walked the streets, seeing many Willis Jeeps.  I ate a cheese potato street food, which later made me sick.  We were so tired after all the walking that we didn't have dinner this night.  The hacienda was beautiful and we slept very comfortable.   

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Santa Rosa de Cabales - Thermal Baths

2/7/2020

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After breakfast at the hotel we packed our things.  I put half a bottle of Amaretto into a water bottle to save space in the backpack.  We got to the South bus station early and waited for the bus to leave.  This would be our first bus trip while traveling in a country from city to city.  we decided that in order to not take a 12 hour ride from major city to major city we would break the distance by finding a place in between.  We were headed to Santa Rosa de Caballes from Medellin. 

After checking the bus fares and times that they travel, we agreed on a mini van instead of a big bus.  Carmen suffered from car sickness and feeling nauseous.  The driver stopped midway and we were able to eat.  When we got to the town the driver asked that we have the claim ticket ready for the bags, and I put my phone down inside the van before exiting.  Just as the driver was leaving I felt I did not have my phone.   We dug in the packs and did not find it.  What a horrible feeling!  I use the phone for maps to help us navigate as we travel and now we had to relay on Carmen....... who does not know google maps downloading. 

We found a taxi that took us to the tourist spot where we had to make a decision between 3 thermal baths areas.  We decided on San Vicente Banos.  We got the full packet....included 3 meals per day for each, transport to the baths and back to the town.  The ride on the medium sized bus was very bumpy and we could barely see the road because it was dark.  There were no lights anywhere and only one car fit on the road.  The drier had to stop for other cars coming on the road.  Once we got to the entrance gate we were given a ride to the room in a 87 Land Cruiser.  Made me miss my blue 1986 Land Cruiser. Once at the cabins we were given a map and the rundown of where everything was. 

We decided to not waste time and changed to bathing suits and walked down the private dark path to the private area for those staying the night.  We found 4 other guests there.  There was a sauna but it was too hot to enter.  Because it was a weekend they only had one night available.  We kept checking if anyone had cancelled so we could get another night, but there were no cancellations. 

​After dinner we walked around and around midnight we went to take a shower and found there was not any hot water.  The restroom window did not have a curtain and we could be seen taking a shower.  Carmen put her scarf up on the window.  

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Fernando Botero - A day in Medellin

2/6/2020

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We took a taxi to the Poblado Metro station early in the morning after having a nice breakfast and sitting up on the roof top terrace of the hotel.  Our goal was to go to the Botanical Gardens and the Botero Museum for this day. 

We did lots of walking and enjoyed the botanical gardens.  There were many birds, iguanas and fabulous plants.  We paid 3,000 pesos each to enter into the garden sanctuary. There were 10 varieties of butterflies in the natural habitat area.  After walking around the gardens we decided to have lunch at the restaurant in the botanical gardens.  The area was under the big trees.  There were many business locals there having the lunch.  They chose to have the meal of the day. We ordered from the menu.  They made some delicious lemonade and natural juices. 

After lunch we entered into the museum store but Carmen did not buy a scarf.  We continued onward taking the metro towards the area where the Botero Plaza/Museum is located.  We saw so many people just standing around under the metro bridge. It seemed like an area that men come to gather and talk,  There were soldiers also present, but we never felt unsafe. 

We walked among the people and towards the area of the sculptures. There are many sculptures outdoors for the public to enjoy without entering the museum.  We paid the small fee and entered to see his paintings.  We were impressed to find out that the artist, Fernando Botero, donated his art work to the museum after being approached to loan his work for a fee.  He was very generous in donating many sculptures and paintings.  

After a long day of walking, we headed back to the hotel and changed to go to dinner.  We decided on Hard Rock Cafe Medellin.  The meal of BBQ Ribs and Chicken was not very good, we had to deal with a disappearing waiter.  We had to ask for water 3 times and I asked for a sauce for my fries which never came. 

​Finally fed up I asked for the manager to tell him about the bad service and share that I would never return.  He informed us that the waiter had left on break and we did not get a new waiter.  We walked back to the hotel and packed up our items because in the morning we would be catching an early bus to Santa Rosa de Cabales.  

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Flight to Medellin

2/5/2020

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We woke up early to the sun and noises outside the window. We decided to go for a last walk around Cartagena before getting on our plane to Medellin.  We found a cafe across to a Hostel that served coffee, juices and vegan food.  The cafe quickly filled up. 

After breakfast we walked to the wall and climbed it so we could take some last pictures.  The sun was already out and there were vendors at the top.  I stopped to talk to a vendor that was selling cold water.  We talked about the 1994 World cup, and I shared that I had seen the Colombian players in San Francisco. We then went back to the Airbnb to pack. 

We walked outside the wall, using the arches that were near the bus stop.  At the bus stop we did not know what bus to take so we asked a lady that was standing there which bus went to the airport.  After telling us the number we looked out for the bus.  When we saw it, Carmen put her hand out and signaled we needed to board.  The bus was very crowded.  We had to stand up in the front next to the turn style.  When I asked the driver what stop the airport was, he said the next one, so we had to push our way to the rear door, which is where we had to exit.

We arrived with plenty of time to the airport to check in and buy a snack.  The airline we were riding was low budget airline that did not offer snacks or meals.  They seated us on separate rows apart.  Luckily that the young man seated next to Carmen agreed to trade with me, so he got my aisle seat.  We were happy to be together and it was a quick hour flight. 

​Once we arrived we knew we had to take a shuttle into Medellin because the airport is on the outskirts of the town over 20 miles away and easily an hours ride.  The shuttle took us through the mountains, with some very beautiful scenery.  
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​I met a guy that took the same shuttle that was very friendly.  He helped us get to the Metro station.  He shared that he had lived in USA, and also shared that he had an Airbnb room and asked if we had already booked a place. 


​We told him we already had reservations at a hotel.  After he helped us to the Metro station he went in opposite direction as we did.  We went to the Poblado station, from there we took a taxi to the Holiday Inn Express, which we got on IHG points.    

​After checking in and cleaning up we took a walk looking for a gallery, but did not find it.  We kept walking and around 7:00 pm stopped for dinner at a Pizza place.  It was very delicious pizza!  After eating we walked the 2.5 miles to the hotel.  We felt very safe and enjoyed the sights, many people out walking.
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Playa Bocagrande

2/4/2020

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We decided not to take a taxi, we took a local bus from just outside the old city wall to the beach.  We rode for 30 minutes, then got off the bus and walked along the beach/playa de Boca Grande looking for a quiet area.  Here the restaurant workers tried to get us to buy water, umbrellas or just to enter for lunch. 

I watched the bag and items while Carmen went to change then got in the water.  There were lots of waves but the water felt great in the hot afternoon.  Carmen enjoyed the water and talked with some ladies that were swimming near her. While sitting on the beach some small fishing boats came in and docked. After we swam for about an hour, we walked back towards where we had seen a public restroom/shower area.  Carmen paid the lady some money to turn on the shower for her and the water barely came out.  The other ladies convinced the girl that it was not fair and she should turn on the water more.  I jumped in the shower first and rinsed off.  Then Carmen jumped in the shower...she rinsed off and had plenty of time because the attendant was arguing with some man.  Carmen then went in to change and use the restroom.  The restrooms were clean and very roomy.  On the way out of the restroom Carmen tipped the girl and thanked her.  

Now hungry we walked looking for a restaurant.  We ended up at a place where I had a great meal of soup with fried fish.  Carmen had a soup that was very hot and she was already sunburned so did not enjoy it much.  We then got back on the bus and headed to the AirBnB to change.  Now back at the room and after a cold shower Carmen finds out that she really got sunburned.... what was she thinking!   Later that evening we buy an aloe gel to cool the sunburn.  She also got some sunscreen.  In the evening we walked back out to see the city in the night. 

​We walked up to the top of the wall and enjoyed some drinks and music.  We also watched some locals having exercise dances in the plaza.  We had a dinner of Kebab at a small corner shop.  It was an ok meal....more of just filling our stomachs than a sit down dinner.  We then walked out and found a shop with some amazing pasties.  We took them to go to enjoy them calmly.  Lots of chocolate. I forced myself to get on the web and make reservations for a flight to Medellin because I was so tired.  If i did not book it the fare would have been double the price.  



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Full Day in the Walled City

2/3/2020

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Being in the Walled City reminded me of the 1984 movie "Romancing the Stone" with many of the scenes filmed on the wall.  We started the day at Juan Valdez Cafe after a lukewarm shower.  The Juan Valdez shop name came from a fictional character for US coffee drinkers.  The shop has 100% Columbian coffee and some bakery goods. The cafe was packed with locals and tourists.  Many university students were there getting their morning coffee.  We walked the streets and walked through the Centenario Plaza where we saw iguanas and even sloth making it's way from tree to tree.  There were groups of people taking walking tours.  Carmen and I just walk on our own and look up items of interest.  We walked to the Getsemani neighborhood with graffiti / murals wall. This was an area that had former prostitution and drugs that now is a tourist interest area.  Some of the murals are political statements that send messages with their art.  I bought a SIM card from a lady outside of the mall, hope that it will last the entire time in Columbia.  

After walking Getsemani we stopped to eat a shrimp cocktail in an outside restaurant under a big tree.  The wind was blowing and the branches shaded us from the sun.  I enjoyed the cocktail while Carmen sat and wrote in her journal.  We then walked to outside the wall to see the boats docked on the pier. 

While walking back into the walled area we noticed a lady stationed under a tree selling lunch to the bus drivers and taxi drivers.  Carmen and I agreed to share a meal.  We had the best soup with white rice!  It was called Sancocho.  We ate on a little table made of a pallet box under a very thin tree. 

We then walked into the San Pedro de Claver church museum which was established by a Jesuit priest.  San Pedro was an advocate for the many African Slaves that were brought in to build the city.  He was "El Apostol de los Negros".  The Jesuits and Father Pedro developed a method, practices of liberation to dignify the enslaved.  Teaching about equality and fraternity.   It was a very beautiful sanctuary that gave us relief from the hot sun at the middle of the day.  We sat in the gardens and marveled at the trees and how the wind was blowing into the garden.  We imagined that in colonial times this is how the people survived the hot days in Cartagena.
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We watched videos prior to the trip and expected to have some vendors scamming or trying to get money from us.  We did not experience that.  Most of the vendors just stood with their items and if one said no they did not insist.  The only bothersome ones were the young kids rapping songs with a hand held radio.  They made up songs as they saw the tourists and followed them singing loudly.  At one point they tried to approach us but before they started I looked at them and signaled NO.  They did not bother coming to rap to us.  

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Feb. 2 2020 - Flight to Cartagena - The walled city.

2/2/2020

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We left from IAH airport, so we took an Uber to the airport early in the morning. We had a layover in Miami and took the opportunity to buy a cuban sandwich at the airport which did not taste all that great.

Immigration in Cartagena was extremely slow and not all berths were open.  Getting off the plane was a new experience as it was not connected to the main terminal.  We had to use the air-stairs to deplane, with the wind blowing pretty strong.  Carmen said it reminded her of the 50's movies.  

The children and seniors were moved to the front of the line, from every flight as they entered the immigration area.  This made us wait over 2 hours to get our entry passport stamp.

We walked past the taxi drivers and tried to take a shuttle, there the driver said he was full but his friend was a driver and would take us....not an official Uber driver since they are outlawed in Colombia.  

We arrived at the AirBnB and after some help from the driver and the building attendant we got the code to the lock and entered the room.  The small apartment was clean and furnished.  It had a window that opened to the street and very high ceilings.  It appeared to be around 100 years old and maybe used as a living area.  They divided the living area to make these efficiency apartments.  There was a kitchen, bedroom and a small restroom.  The water did not get real hot, just warm.  The outside temperatures were in the mid 80s so it was a refreshing and cool shower.  After resting a bit we went out and walked the city.  There were many shops, pharmacy's and restaurants of many kinds.  Just walking around to see the beautiful colonial buildings with the beach colors was an experience!



​The colors were lively and beautiful.  Cartagena de Indias is inside the Wall and is considered an UNESCO site.  We ended up eating at a small restaurant.  The food was outstanding....I had the fish and Carmen had an asian rice.  There was so much food, Carmen took half of hers to go.  As we were walking the streets a guy asked her for the bag of food for a trade of a bracelet.  She gave him the food and did not take a bracelet. 

​We kept walking and I bought a metal wire sun for our sun wall collection.  I was able to get him to lower the price and paid 25,000 Colombian pesos, over 7 dollars in US.   We then walked back to the airbnb tired from all the walking.  All night there was singing, music and party noises coming in from the window.
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